Growing up in southeast London in the 1950s we ate a heap of different foods.
Pretty much all of them were cooked from scratch at home using whatever ingredients were to hand.And that meant that some of the meals were a bit of a strange mix, but they followed a basic recipe and drew on what mum and dad had eaten in their youth.
To this could be added the experience of wartime rationing and the limited range of food that was available.
So, leaving aside the seasonal aspect of what was in the shops this was a time before advent of exotic vegetables and fruit shipped from around the world and ready to buy all year round.
So, strawberries, raspberries, new potatoes and a selection of root veg came and went adding to the slow rhythm of what we ate and I think made for an appreciative anticipation.
Now there was always tinned fruit which usually was saved for Sundays.
It also meant that things like avocados didn’t feature with me until I was well into my 30s.
And then there were the odd dishes which I always thought of as peculiar to our family and a bit of an aberration.Chief amongst these was spaghetti cooked with milk and sugar. It was a pudding treat, quick to make and always went down well.
But in those quiet shared conversations with friends’ spaghetti cooked with milk and sugar always drew a blank, in fact more than a blank, the general consensus ranged from disgust to outright derision. It was a bizarre thing.
And so, I was left to “mutter well we liked it” with that consoling thought that it was the past where we did things differently.
Leaving me to write a few reflective pieces and ponder how we were an aberration.
But not so, because tucked away in a book from the Great War on vegetarian recipes, I came across cooking boiled Macaroni “with a little sugar and milk [which] makes a very acceptable pudding”.
I rest my case …. It may not pass muster today but jolly well was up there on the tables of fellow vegetarians in 1918.
The book has been reprinted by Read Books in their collection of Vintage Cook Books.
The publisher’s blurb tells me that it was “Originally published during WWI, this is one of the early vegetarian cook books, issued to help deal with rationing and the meat crisis.It contains many recipes and much advice that is still of practical use and interest today. Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive.
Vintage Cookery Books are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
Contents Include: Hints On Food Soups Vegetable Stock Lentil Dishes Brown Lentils Rice Dishes Haricot Dishes Macaroni Dishes Nut Dishes Cheese Dishes Miscellaneous Dishes Curries Vegetables Sweets Pastry Salads Sauces Porridge Egg Dishes Explanations and Suggestions Menus For A Fortnight”.**
Now Lois my dearest friend and fellow writer and blogger who has followed my journey as a vegetarian for forty years and more sent me a copy yesterday.
I read it in a single sitting.
Some of the recipes I already cooked, others looked a challenge or just didn’t appeal.
But the historian in me will go back and explore the 100 dishes as backdrop, not only to vegetarianism but also to the Great War.
And that is it.
Pictures; pasta to make a pudding from, 2026, cover of the reprint Food in War Time, 2026
* Sugar sandwiches …. fruit salad ….. and carnation ……. food for the Gods, https://chorltonhistory.blogspot.com/2026/07/sugar-sandwiches-fruit-salad-and.html
** Food in War Time - Vegetarian Recipes for 100 Inexpensive Dishes: And Helpful Suggestions for Providing Two Course Dinners for Six People for One Shilling, George W. Hall
***Lois Elsden, Writer, https://loiselsden.com/
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