Location; the Thames
Picture; the River in 1979, from the collection of Andrew Simpson
*The lost Eltham and Woolwich pictures, https://chorltonhistory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/The%20lost%20Eltham%20and%20Woolwich%20pictures
I am a great admirer of Mary Mills and her work which over the years has revealed the industrial archaeology of where I grew up.
Entitled “Power Generation Sites in Greenwich and Woolwich”* it is her most recent book and explores all aspects of how power was supplied across the borough and beyond.Here can be found descriptions of the many and varied sources of power from wind, water and tidal mills along with coal, gas and electrical power.
And includes “'Woolwich's 'Secret City' - the Royal Arsenal - along with the oldest power station, as we would understand it, in the world, the largest installation for town gas storage ever and one of the first to generate power from domestic waste.
This is a non-technical work aimed at the general reader and all those interested in how our world today developed”.
Starting in the Middle Ages the book moves through to the 21st century with the Optic Cloak at the Greenwich Energy Centre on the Peninsula and the innovative South East London Community Energy which “is a non-for-profit social enterprise. Formed by residents of Greenwich and Lewisham who want to play an active role in shaping the energy future of South East London …. taking action to combat climate change through generating renewable energy and tackle fuel poverty”.
It is one of those books which you can walk, with the locations of each site clearly outlined and speculation on those that have long gone as to what they might have looked like. To this she has added plenty of old and contemporary images of the sites, supported by maps, and is fully referenced.
Amongst the images are the iconic Woolwich Tramshed fondly remembered by generations as the go to place for entertainment and the stunning cover to the story of Deptford Power Station.And as an Eltham lad I couldn’t miss out our own Gas Works on a corner of Eltham Green and the failed attempt to build an earlier works behind Eltham High Street.
Added to which there is the intriguing suggestion of mills at Mottingham Lane, and at Horn Park Farm and “a mill or a series of mills at Lee in the Kidbrooke Parish area”.
All of which is fascinating and come with heaps of pictures of gasholders which I have to confess are another of those objects that fascinate me but are now very much an endangered “species”.
“Power Generation Sites in Greenwich and Woolwich” is priced at £15 and is available from Amazon and is the sixth publication by the author.**
Location Greenwich & WoolwichPictures; cover & illustration of Deptford Power Station from the book,and memories of a different use for the Tramshed, the badge circa 1970s, from the collection of Andrew Simpson
*Power Generation Sites in Greenwich and Woolwich by Dr MARY, 2026, 2026ISBN 979-81992-4195-3
**Greenwich Peninsula Greenwich Marsh A History of a Heartland, The Greenwich Riverside Upper Watergate to Angerstein, The Industries of Deptford Creek, The Early East London Gas Industry and George Livesey, A Biography
Just when I spent my dinner times gazing out over the River talking about music, the chance of over time and pretty much everything is lost.
I think it will be the summer of 1970 and the location was Glenville’s the food factory down by the Blackwall Tunnel.It could have been the year before or the year after.
Glenville’s made a variety of things from custard powder, and sachets of flavoured water you left in the freezer, to their specialty which was turning powdered milk into granules.
Of all the jobs this was the most unpleasant given that I was tasked with filling large bags of the milk granules as they shot out of a pipe.
It didn’t help that the regulating tap didn’t work very well so you used your hand to stem the flow just long enough to get a bag underneath, and that it came out very hot from being blown through a set of stainless-steel tubes.
Added to which the sweet-smelling stuff stuck to your overalls and worse still your face which on very hot days was prone to mix with your perspiration to form rivulets of milky sweat.
Nor was that all because while we were paid a basic wage there was a bonus for the amount that was produced, and there was the flaw, because on wet and damp days the granulated milk clogged the tubes and production ceased.
At other times I worked in the dispatch area on the ground floor at the end of a long conveyor belt which disappeared into the roof and on to another few floors.
Loading the boxes of assorted “stuff” was never the problem only that they came down at a ferocious pace, and if not unloaded quickly enough would cause a long jam, which the pressure of more from on high meant that sometimes the boxes burst open showering us in clouds of custard or blancmange powder.
All of which meant that breaks and dinner times took on a special place in the day.
And it will have been on one of those that I met up with a South African.
He was the first South African I had met, and I was fascinated by him. He was a few years older than me, and he had already traveled thousands of miles across two continents, while I had just got the bus from Eltham.
Over half a century later I can’t remember what we talked about other than that song America by Simon and Garfunkel, which chronicles the journey across the US by two young lovers.
We shared the magic of their journey and each of us in our different ways conjured the trip from Saginaw, in Michigan via Pittsburgh to New Jersey.And now all those years later I have no idea what he looked like or our other companions, and our dinner time conversations are lost.
But listening to America brings back my time in Glenville’s from the smell of the various products being made, along with that of the River to that carefree and optimistic take on life which at 20 I shared with Kathy and her lover.
I still have that optimistic take but long ago lost Glenville's, and despite frequent visits to the area its exact location remains elusive.
So I await a photo, an address or a memory from someone who like me passed a batch of his early 20s at the food factory by the River.
Location; Glenville’s, Greenwich
Pictures; by the River, 1970s, from the collection of Andrew Simpson
Now, even on an August morning with the promise of a hot day ahead, standing at the bus stop opposite the Woolwich Ferry at 5 in the morning could be a grim place.
Instead I spent a time in the old R.A.C.S. food warehouse, dispatching groceries to stores across south east London and beyond.
It was a fascinating place, where its earlier life lingered on in the powerful smell of tea which permeated one floor, and the loop holes on all the floors which gave access to the River, but I guess had long ago seen the last cargoes hoisted from the jetty water side.
And now the building has gone. Just when this complex of Victorian warehouses was demolished I have yet to discover, but gone it has.
And so it seems has Glenvilles which was close to the Blackwall Tunnel and stood in the shadow of Tunnel Refineries.
Even now a full 52 years later I can still remember that pungent smell from the Refineries.
I say powdered milk but to be more accurate it turned milk powder into granules for a variety of companies from Sainsbury, Tesco to Fine Fare.
The process was a simple enough one and involved blowing milk powder along giant stainless steel tubes under heat, which turned the powder into granuales.
The story was that the process came from Arizona, which is hot and dry, but made for difficulties in a factory beside the Thames where the climate can be damp and cold.
The upshot was that on some days the parts clogged up and production stuttered to a halt, and on a very bad day ceased all together, which was bad news given that we were on a bonus scheme.
Nor was that all, because the outlet valve where the granules left the tube was often faulty, which presented problems. Ideally it was a simple task, to fill a 56 lb bag of the stuff and shut the tap off. But
When the tap was faulty one of the team had to place his had underneath it while the other quickly yanked the bag away and replaced it with another. Any tardiness on the part of the team could lead to a spillage of very hot granules across the floor and led to a cloud of milk dust which clung to your overalls, mixed with your perspiration and made for rivulets of sticky sweet smelling milk to run down your face.
Later in the cooler parts of the plant that milk powder hardened on your boiler suit forming a crunchy surface, which fellow passengers on the bus home stayed well away from, making you the Billy No Mates of London Transport. But it did have just one perk, and that was the after shift drink in the Cutty Sark pub.
Needless to say their visit was a tad challenged by the two young workers in boilersuits emanating a distinct milk perfume and shedding the occasional crispy white flakes.
It was a childish tilt at “class war”, which I doubt pleased the landlord, and still involved that long bus journey back to Eltham.
Leaving me just to admit that for 35 years I taught in inner city schools, and now fill out my time as a researcher and a writer.
But I still look back on those first jobs, and reflect that while I have changed so has much of the River that I knew.
I do miss the bustle of the River, and the hours I spent as a kid wandering the area, but the past should always be judged with a critical eye.
I remember my foreman at Glenvilles admitting that he never ate the left overs from the Sunday roast, reckoning it was not a question of wasting food, but just simply it reminded him of growing up in the age of "make do and mend", where new was a luxury, and food remainded something to be grateful for.
Location; between Woolwich and Greenwich along the Thames, in the 1960s and 70s
Pictures; Woolwich and Greenwich, the 1970s, from the collection of Andrew Simpson
It will have been in 1979, and I guess it was sometime in the summer and on a whim, I took a trip on the River.
On this day I will have been home from Manchester which had already been my adopted city for a decade, so reckon that pleasure cruise would have been a way of reuniting with my city.
Or it may have just been an excuse to try out a new camera.Either way I used up two films, and still have the negatives which sat in the cellar for 40 years before I brought them out of the shadows.
Looking at the direction of some of the images I will have taken the trip upriver from Greenwich past the Tower and on to Westminster.
Back then I didn’t record the exact destinations or who was with me, but it was a rewarding day and I still have heaps of pictures of that grimy London, which the tourists see but never bother “snapping”.
I did and many of those warehouses have now vanished or been converted into swish riverside apartments.
The waterfront has been “cleaned up” and new properties stand where once cranes unloaded diverse cargoes from pretty much everywhere.Added to which since I sat on the benches of that boat new bridges cross the River and stepping back from the water are shedloads of gleaming glass and steel tower blocks.
All of that said these images instantly bring back that smell of the Thames and the noise of the river traffic.
And now it’s a full 45 years since the journey which has gone in a blink.
Pictures; wot I saw on a trip along the Thames, 1979, from the collection of Andrew Simpson
I don’t know if cargo ships still berth along my bit of the River at Greenwich.
I left London in 1969 and while I still came home for holidays my visits to this bit of where I grew up became less and less.
But back in the late 1970s I did wander the water with a camera and recorded what I saw.
To some they will be dismal, and grimy but they were my part of London.
What strikes me about the berthed ship is how deep the inside compared to the men.
It’s a silly observation given that the hold had to store heaps of things, but it reminds me of just how different the Thames at Greenwich was five decades ago.
The image is one that sat as a collection of negatives in our cellar for 40 odd years, and only recently has come out of the shadows as I digitalize those pictures.
The coaster on the mud at Lovells was one of the first of a type designed with elevating wheelhouses and masts ets to work upstream on the Rhine and other European rivers. The depth of the hold would have probably been around 4 metres".
Location; The River Thames
Pictures; waiting to load, the Thames, 1979, from the collection of Andrew Simpson
You can never have enough pictures of the Woolwich Ferry, and so it proved again yesterday when I posted a picture of one of the old ferries.
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| 1905 |
They replaced the Gordan, the Duncan and the Hutton, the first of which began chugging across the river in 1889.
And before that, the Royal Arsenal operated their own ferry service in 1810, followed by various commercial venture.
Nor I suspect was the Royal Arsenal the first, because given the need, there must have been plenty of enterprising people who saw a potential money making enterprise.
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| 2012 |
Anyone who was born or grew up in Eltham, will have used them at sometime, and for me crossing the river by the free ferry has always been magic.
It might not take long but in the short time while on board the trip offers up spectacular views, and of course that distinctive smell that you only get from big powerful rivers.
I have never lost my love of the Woolwich Ferry, so much, that a few years ago on missing the M25 on our way north from Kent, I seized the opportunity to make the river crossing at Woolwich.
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| 2021 |
The journey from Well Hall up to Shooters Hill was pleasant, the fall down into Woolwich quite spectacular and the river crossing something else.
Of course those of us who have used it all our lives can be a tad dismissive of the journey.
You often have to wait a long time to get on, the trip across is short and often accompanied by gust of cold river wind, but it can still be pretty good.
On the day we made thee crossing, the sun was hot, the water almost blue, and we were set up for the long drive north.
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| 2021 |
I do miss the cranes and barges, and the busy doings of a working river.
And before I slip into romantic tosh about a bustling living water way it is as well to remember it was dirty, noisy and for those who made a livelihood beside the river it was hard dangerous work and the rewards were not always that good.
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| 2012 |
Location; Woolwich, London
Picture; the Woolwich Ferry, 1905 courtesy of TuckDB, http://tuckdb.org/postcards, the ferry in 2012, from the collection of Andrew Simpson and Dame Vera Lynn courtesy of Gary Luttman and Paula Nottle
Enough said.
Location; WoolwichPicture; the ferry, Woolwich, 2012, from the collection of Andrew Simpson
Now I like the way stories shoot off in unexpected directions and so it is with this one which flows from descriptions of the river, to mutual friends and acquaintances and ends up with a new friend.
| Looking at out on my River, 1979 |
As kids our adventures ran from playing amongst the barges at low tide to the west of the Greenwich foot tunnel and taking that slightly unnerving trip under the river.
Later still there are the memories of sitting in front of the Cutty Sark pub watching the pleasure boats head down river and listening to the barges gently banging to together in their wake.
| Working the River, 1979 |
It was also the Ferry which got me out of trouble after I misjudged a journey back from Kent towards Manchester and having messed up with M25 I tried to retrieve the situation by taking Tina through Eltham, passing the old family house on Well Hall Road and making the river crossing at Woolwich.
And it worked, because Tina who is Italian was entranced by that short river crossing, and still a decade later talks about the magic of the River.
So, I was pleased to come across a book on the Greenwich river side, written by Mary Mills who knows the area well, was a Greenwich Borough Councillor for a ward that hugs the shoreline, and has written several other accounts of the area along with a history of the gas industry in south east London.
| The Greenwich Riverside, 2021 |
It looks at how the area developed because of river use, but also how the proximity of the Royal Court, and closeness of the City of London influenced the nature of much activity. It is also a story of some superlatives - the first this, the biggest that, and how the world changed because of what went on here”.
My copy sits on a shelf in the study as I write, and in the meantime, I am also thinking of how Mary and I came across each other and became friends.
And that is one of those odd events, because she discovered a book I had written which included Alan Hollingun, who like me lives in Chorlton-cum-Hardy in south Manchester.**
| Alan Hollingun, 2017 |
So that is it …… the story that travels from Manchester, home to south east London and settles on Woolwich and Greenwich, and reflects on the friends we make along the way.
Location, Greenwich, and Chorlton-cum-Hardy
Pictures; views of my River, Greenwich, 1979, the cover of The Greenwich Riverside. Upper Watergate to Angerstein, and Alan Hollingun, painted by Peter Topping, 2017, from The Quirks of Chorlton-cum-Hardy, 2017
* The Greenwich Riverside. Upper Watergate to Angerstein, Mary Mills, 2021, available on Amazon
**The Quirks of Chorlton-cum-Hardy, Andrew Simpson, Peter Topping, 2017
It will be something like 46 years ago that I walked beside the River snapping away with a brand new camera.
And the negatives have sat in the cellar for 4 decades.
But now they are out in the light of day, a reminder of what the River was like and that excursion out with the brand new camera.
Location; The River
Pictures, Walking the River, 1979 from the collection of Andrew Simpson
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| Nocturne in Black & Gold the Falling Rocket, 1872-75 |
This is St Mary’s Church in Rotherhithe in the summer of 1979, although until a few minutes ago I had no idea of its name or location.
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| St Mary's, Rotherhithe, 1979 |
On this particular day I wasted the return rail ticket to Well Hall and on a whim took one of those tourist pleasure trips to Greenwich from where I wandered over to Blackheath and caught the bus back to Eltham.
But enough of the travel detail, it is the picture which caught my interest and set me off on a detective hunt.
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| St Mary's, Rotherhithe, 2023 |
So, after a few fruitless attempts at asking various online sites for suggestions of London churches by the River I happened on repeating the journey.
Given that Manchester is now home, the trip was by Google Maps starting out by London Bridge and by degree arriving at Greenwich.
I assumed it was a Wren church and would be on the north side of the water, but no it was Rotherhithe.
The distinctive spire is still visible from the River, and the surrounding buildings look unchanged.
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| St Mary's from St Mary's Street, 2018 |
My Wikipedia tells me that “It was rebuilt in 1714–15, to a design by John James, a major architect of his day (and an associate of Sir Christopher Wren).
As money was short, the tower was not finished until 1747, when Lancelot Dowbiggin, a City joiner and surveyor, completed it, perhaps to his own design, following the general plan of James.
Since then, the external appearance of the church has remained almost unchanged. It is set in a narrow street close to the Thames, surrounded by former warehouses and facing the charity school house which was built in 1703.
In 1760, Birmingham industrialist Matthew Boulton wed his second wife, Anne, here. The two had journeyed far from home to evade ecclesiastical difficulties; she was his first wife's sister, and the marriage was forbidden by canon law, but not void if no one objected when the banns were read.
In 1838, when the well-known ship Temeraire was broken up, some of her timbers were used to build a communion table and two bishop's chairs in the Rotherhithe church”.
To which I can add that it replaced an earlier medieval church which in turn stood on a building dating back to the Romans.
And brings me almost home, because it was Mathew Boulton that other half of the Boulton and Watt partnership which powered the Industrial Revolution.
A partnership which transformed my adopted city of Manchester into the "shock city of the Industrial Revolution" ** and offered up that wonderful observation recorded by James Boswell that Mathew Boulton sold "what all the world desire~ to have-POWER,"***
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| Mystery spot, 1979 |
Location; the River
Pictures; St Mary’s Rotherhithe and unknown building, 1970 from the collection of Andrew Simpson and St Mary's from the River by Michal, 2023, and from Rotherhithe Street, 2018, courtesy of Google Maps
*St Mary's Church, Rotherhithe, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Mary%27s_Church,_Rotherhithe
*Briggs, Asa, Victorian Cities, 1963
** "1 sell here. Sir. what all the world desire~ to have-POWER," Mathew Boulton to James Boswell, 1776