At home in Torre Annunziata in the Gulf of Naples

Now according to one travel authority the top ten things to do in Torre Annunziata range from 21 sights and landmarks, six outdoor activities, nine night spots and a handful of shops, spars, and parks.

Baba and zeppole

But after the short flight from Milan down to Naples and the 30-minute taxi ride from the airport, the remainder of the first day’s stay should really be taken gently.

This usually consist of a stroll to the local supermarket for a few essentials, including a selection of pastries, one of which must be a  zeppole and my favourite which is baba.

Then after a rest, a more serious wander to the nearby piazza where they sell fried potato croquettes.

These are called panzerotto but differ from the usual ones which look small calzone and use mashed potato instead of bread dough.

Looking for the piazza

By which time there is not that much left of the day, and the most sensible thing is to head back to the apartment, and settle down for the night, so as to be  ready for the morning’s adventures.

Torre Annunziata is a small place, and it is where Rosa was born.

The plan is to visit some of the old places and take in a few more from where Simone grew up, which is close by.

Today the town is a suburb of Naples, with a population of just over 42,000 but has its own distinct dialect which is a variation of Neapolitan.

It never occurred to me before that this will be what Simone and Rosa would have used at home and it will be what Tina and her brothers and sisters heard in the family home as they were growing up.

But Rosa and Simone left in 1960, and while they have been back, I wonder just how much it still looks like the place they knew.

The Encyclopedia Britannica described the town as "a seaport of Campania, Italy, in the province of Naples, on the east of the Bay of Naples, and at the south foot of Mt Vesuvius, 14 m. S.E. of Naples by rail. Pop. (1901), 2S,070 (town); 28,084 (commune). It is on the main line to Battipaglia, at the point of junction of a branch line from Cancello round the east of Vesuvius, and of the branch to Castellammare di Stabia and Gragnano. 

It has a royal arms factory established by Charles IV., and other ironworks, considerable manufacture of macaroni, paper, breeding of silkworms, and some fishing and shipping. 

The harbour is protected by moles. Remains attributed to the Roman post-station of Oplontis were discovered in making the railway between Torre del Greco and Torre Annunziata, a little west of the latter, in 1842”.

Down a street

But that was in 1911, and today my guide book tells me that it still has industries based around the navy, armaments and pharmaceuticals.

Just leaving me to ponder on the current exhibition of “sculptures and objects from Roman villas” at the Palazzo Criscuolo.

It will cost us just € 3.00, and not for the first time I ask Tina if they might offer concessions for OAPs but reflect that my concessionary bus pass might not pass muster as identification of my senior age.

So instead I will use the virtual guide to see what I am missing, which can be accessed from the town’s municipal web site.*

Who said you can’t live in the fast lane in Torre Annunziata?

Location; Torre Annunziata

Pictures; Torre Annunziata, 2019, from the collection of T. Balzano

*Comune Di Torre Annunziata,  http://www.comune.torreannunziata.na.it/hh/index.php

A bit of history on a wall ………….

Now there are plenty of very narrow streets in Torre Annunziata, which sits in the Gulf of Naples.

I am not sure that you would choose it as your tourist destination of choice.

It is after all a busy no-nonsense place, which once made its money from making armaments, pasta, paper and breeding silkworms, along with a bit of fishing and shipping.

And today that is pretty much still the case with the addition of pharmaceuticals.

I like the fact that despite having a population of just over 42,000 it retains its own distinct dialect which is a variation of Neapolitan and is town that is pretty proud of itself.

Which is just how it should be, given that it is in the process of revealing a fine old Roman villa, has fine views across the Bay and offers plenty of those little twisty streets, which end in a piazza and reveal some interesting bits of Torre Annunziata’s past.

Like the sign on a wall which tells the story of making pasta, from unloading the grain in the town’s harbour, to the various processes, which end with a young woman, a glass of wine and a plate of pasta, set against a panoramic view of the Gulf.

It is a unique account of one family business.

And yes, look closely, and there are those classic pictures of the pasta hanging out to dry on street corners accompanied by groups of workers staring back at the camera.

It is a fascinating little bit of history, which of course led us on to thinking about food, and one of the town’s speciality street foods, called panzerotto, which differ from the usual ones, and instead of bread dough, are made from mashed potato and are deep fried.

Leaving me just to reflect that there were plenty of other things on offer, but a couple panzerotto were a good start.

Location; Torre Annunziata







Pictures; Torre Annunziata, 2019, Balzano