Of places to see and things to do ..... La Pagul in Mergozzo ......

Mergozzo is a tiny place.

It is home to 2,135 people, but I am stumped as to how many more pass through during the holiday season.

Many of these tourists do in fact seem to be passing through.

Some are just staying an hour before climbing back on their motor bikes or into their cars in search of something new to see.

A few more use it for a few days as a base for walking the mountains, or cycling along the shores of the lake.

And a handful, like us have opted to wash up for the week, making no claims to anything more energetic than sitting in the sun, on the grass beside the lake.

I am surprised just how few of us there are enjoying a beach holiday without the beach, and how warm the lake water can be, even at 10 in the morning.

We had driven over from Varese where the family live and the journey takes less than an hour which means we can nip back and forth with no sense that this has been a chore.

But for most of the time we stay by the lake with the odd adventure around the town, which is less all of us and more just me and a camera.

What strikes you is the total lack of town planning.  The houses rise from the sides of the mountain, and streets come to an end because someone has extended their home or added another to the ones already there.

And where the streets haven’t been blocked, they rise up to  another level with the aid of steep steps, making me wonder just how easy they are to navigate after a week of snow has fallen.

But then, given how narrow the streets are and how little daylight penetrates I can’t think that much snow gets through.

So I go looking for a restaurant for the evening of which there are more than a few, but some are no more than over priced snack bars with indifferent food, delivered by surly waiters.

Of course they may just be tired after a long season, but I think not.   The small dark haired woman who served us on the first day never seems to smile and her companion has mastered the art of ignoring customers judging perfectly that moment just before the expectant dinners lose patience and are about to leave.

But amongst these are the more welcoming restaurants of which La Pagul, shines out.   It is tucked away in a side street and on our first night was closed.

But the big barn doors and the selection of community posters pinned outside announcing a variety of events caught our attention.

That said it wasn’t our first choice, that fell to another place which always seemed fully booked.

So, on our last night we tried it, and it was indeed a choice well made.

The staff were attentive, friendly and helpful, the food excellent and the other customers were mostly locals which pretty much confirmed its worth.

And for those who want to know about the food, we started with a shared plate of fresh vegetables with grilled goat’s cheese, followed by gnocchi in a light Gorgonzola sauce with the some delightful puddings.

The decor had a feel of the late 1960s and early 70s with art work inspired by Dali and an easy going approach which was reflected in the way they welcomed in the flower seller, allowing him to offer his wares, and even giving him something to teak away with.

Location; Mergozzo

Pictures; around, 2018, from the collection of Andrew Simpson, and La Pagul, courtesy of the restaurant

*Ristorante La Pagul, Vicolo XI, 4, 28802 Mergozzo

In Mergozzo with tall houses and twisty streets

Mergozzo is a tiny place, sandwiched between the mountains and the lake, with a population of 2,135 and a cluster of houses which nestle beside each other.

Their design defies any sense of planning and they spread out in all directions.

And for the unwary tourist they hold surprises, like the way they make a road a dead end, simply by growing out of their neighbour.

Added to which because the old town hugs the side of the mountain, the streets climb up in long stretches of stairs, disappearing into the shadows.

Beyond this old bit of the town, are new houses which are neat boxes following a common plan with equally neat gardens to front and back and an ample place for a car.

This last feature is in distinct contrast to the old town where because of the twisty narrow streets car spaces are at a premium.

And that adds to the charm of the place, where you are never far from the sound of the water lapping the stone wall by the lake, or the careless conversations of locals and tourists in the town square.

Location; Mergozzo

Pictures; Mergozza, 2018, from the collection of Andrew Simpson

By the lake at Mergozza ........ remembering those who marched away

It is a simple monument as befits the small village of Mergozzo.

The memorial looks out across the lake and stands in the main square, ringed by restaurants and surrounded by stone benches, making it part of the community.

Location; Mergozza













Picture; the war memorial Mergozza, from the collection of Andrew Simpson

Hidden gems along the Via Roma

Now I have got to know the Via Roma well.

It begins as a narrow street leading off the Via Pallanza by the side of the lake and runs out to a broad road that takes you out of Mergozzo and onto the autostrada.

The first part of that street is typical old Italian with tall buildings which have a faded charm and amongst these, set a little back from the road is the tiny church of St Martha.

It dates from the 12th century and was originally dedicated to Saint Quirico and Julitta who were martyred in 304 in Tarsus.

Later the church was given to the brothers of St Martha, “with the task of giving shelter to wayfarers”.*

During its restoration in 1932, a fresco of Saint Martha along with the Brotherhood was uncovered.

Had I known that I might well have gone in on the Saturday and Sunday that the doors were open, but
I was busy and reasoned there would be plenty of opportunities to call in, which of course I never did.

And that was a shame, because such churches offer up plenty that is fascinating and a contrast to the churches in Britain.

If I am honest I think I was also a little wary of visiting a place of worship, just to take a few pictures.

All of which was my loss.

But Mergozzo is only an hour away from Varese, so we may nip back one weekend, and it may just be that the Babilonia Diner which is next door will finally open its doors.

In all the time we were there it remained closed, which was a shame.

But then there are plenty of restaurants along the Via Pallanza and an interesting bar jus up from the church frequented by the locals.

So, I suppose if Babilonia, remains closed, I can always fall back on the bar until the church reopens.

Location; Mergozzo








Pictures; along the Via Roma in Mergozzo, 2018, from the collection of Andrew Simpson

*Notes from the notice board outside the church