Wednesday 14 August 2024

Adventures in Middle England …... no. 6 … a pint ..... a pub .... and a bit of history

This is the story of two country pubs …. both “half as old as time” and both fascinating places whose stories can only best be shared over a pint on a warm summer’s day with the old couple in the corner.

The Bewicke Arms, 2024
Ideally such pubs are best “chance discoveries” which you come across on one of those aimless trips down country lanes with no purpose other than to find out what’s around the corner.

This way of exploring somewhere to drink, is in start contrast to those friends of mine who buy the guides to pubs and during quiet winter evenings plan the spring and summer day outs with the option on a series of stay overs.

But for us falling across The Bewicke Arms was pure chance on a day when we had hit on the village of Hallaton.  

Sadly it was closed but a quick glance on line offered this from CAMRA“17th century pub, thatched roof and low beams, but modernised interior. 

A sign to light the way, 2024

Pub reopened August 2023 after a long period of closure. Popular for Thai food. No bus service to Hallaton these days.  The pub is located within a grade 2 listed building”.*

And that led me back to Historic England who told me it was a listed as a Grade II building in 1984 describing it as a “Public house and dwelling. Late C16 - early C17. Render over ironstone rubble with thatched roof. 2 storeyed, large 2-unit plan with gabled right hand bay containing canted bay window to ground floor and 3-light casement above. 

Doorway left of this, and a 3-light casement beyond it. 2 other upper 3-light casements. Fenestration probably C19 or C20. Coped gables. Gable and axial stacks”.**

Now, Hallaton is a small village of just over 590 people about 17 miles from Leicester and despite CAMRA’s dismal warning, there does appear a bus.  

In Hallaton walls have their own flowers, 2024
And for those who are interested it’s the 747 from the Haymarket bus station in Leicester, takes  36 minutes but and there always is a but there is only one every four hours.

So best watch the time before ordering another round of drinks in The Bewicke Arms, which brings me back to the pub which I know was run by a Thomas Peck in 1891.  He was 79 a widow and was assisted by his daughter Phobe and Sarah Simpkin who described herself as a “General Servant was aged 14 and like the Peck’s had been born in Hallaton.

Back then the occupants of the village derived their living from the land, and associated trades like blacksmith with a high proportion working for the railway, along with some charwomen, a grocer, butcher, a dressmaker and the schoolteacher.

A decade later the job profile had changed little, and the population stood at 609.

In the fulness of time I will dig deeper into the village and perhaps we will return during opening times.

The pub in Great Tew, 2024
And that is what we had done when we visited the Falklands Arms in Great Tew.  

It dates from the 16th century, and the interior is all you would expect from an old pub in the heart of a rural village.

The rooms are small, boast wood and stone floors with a mix of panelling and bare brick walls.

All of which is perfect for a night with a series of pints pondering on the pubs stories, but that is a tad unhistorical and so I shall go offer and look its past in the historical records.

Inside with stories from the 16th century, 2024

But not before I call back the memories of similar nights in the pubs of Kent which were just a short journey from Eltham, that bit of south east London where I grew up.

Never underestimate  the joy of being 18 with friends who not only had cars but didn't drink, all of which was a recipe for long summer evenings exploring picturesque villages and sampling rough cider at a shilling a pint.

But that is for another time.

Location; Hallaton & Great Tew

Pictures; pubs with history, 2024, from the collection of Andrew Simpson

*Bewicke Arms, Hallaton, CAMRA, https://www1.camra.org.uk/pubs/bewicke-arms-hallaton-174431

** The Bewicke Arms Public House, Historic England, https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1061672?section=official-list-entry

Census returns, 1891 & 1901, Enu 4 Hallaton, Leicestershire

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