Now in a perfect world we would all shop locally at independent retailers, many of whom could point to a family business that went back generations.
But that is now no longer the case, as the large supermarket has come to dominate how we shop.
Of course, there was that cross over point when some independent retailers, embraced self service and the new look, and offered up a different way of shopping.
And it proved popular with people who wanted to choose their own food from the shelves and craved far greater variety.
I still remember our local shop in south east London, where the most exotic thing available was a bag of frozen peas, while the choice of cheese was simply “red” or “white”.
Added to which because footfall and turn over was limited, some stuff was decidedly “old”.
But I think we have lost something, not least that a few of those shop keepers, knew you, and your family, spent time talking to you and would make an effort to look out for that “something I know you will like”.
All of which sits with that simple truth, that when you hand over the supply of your food to a few large companies you surrender a little bit of your own freedom.
And along the way those big companies have dominance over the producers, whether it be a strawberry farmer down south, a poultry producer in Lancashire, or for that matter a village co-operative in Zimbabwe.
Now that has been upper most in my mind this week as we nipped in and out of the local Esselunga, a chain of supermarkets you can find all over Italy.
Ours, follows that old retail approach of “pile them high and sell them cheap”, but that is to do Esselunga a disservice, because the quality and presentation of the food is excellent.
And you can still find piles of the vegetables which are misshapen and still come with soil attached.
At which I point I will declare an interest and say not only am I a fan of Esselunga but have requested they deliver to us in a van …………….. although I fear the post Brexit hold ups at Dover.
In the meantime, the family are sitting down to risotto alla pescatora, which is one of Rosa’s signature dishes, all except me of course, who doesn’t like risotto and has been veggie for thirty years, still she does a mean selection of roasted peppers and grilled aubergines accompanied by pasta so no problems.
Location; Varese
Pictures; the Esselunga in Varese and Rosa’s risotto alla pescatora, 2019, from the collection of Balzano
The Esselunga Unofficial Fan Club [Manchester]
*Yes I am well aware that even the small retailer's were at the mercy of a distribution chain which started at the markets, where the wholesalers made choices of what to sell, and food companies who back in the past may not always have had an eye on quality.
 |
| Esselunga at its best, 2019 |
Of course, there was that cross over point when some independent retailers, embraced self service and the new look, and offered up a different way of shopping.
And it proved popular with people who wanted to choose their own food from the shelves and craved far greater variety.
I still remember our local shop in south east London, where the most exotic thing available was a bag of frozen peas, while the choice of cheese was simply “red” or “white”.
Added to which because footfall and turn over was limited, some stuff was decidedly “old”.
 |
| Bright, happy food |
All of which sits with that simple truth, that when you hand over the supply of your food to a few large companies you surrender a little bit of your own freedom.
And along the way those big companies have dominance over the producers, whether it be a strawberry farmer down south, a poultry producer in Lancashire, or for that matter a village co-operative in Zimbabwe.
Now that has been upper most in my mind this week as we nipped in and out of the local Esselunga, a chain of supermarkets you can find all over Italy.
Ours, follows that old retail approach of “pile them high and sell them cheap”, but that is to do Esselunga a disservice, because the quality and presentation of the food is excellent.
And you can still find piles of the vegetables which are misshapen and still come with soil attached.
 |
| Risotto alla pescatora, 2019 |
In the meantime, the family are sitting down to risotto alla pescatora, which is one of Rosa’s signature dishes, all except me of course, who doesn’t like risotto and has been veggie for thirty years, still she does a mean selection of roasted peppers and grilled aubergines accompanied by pasta so no problems.
Location; Varese
Pictures; the Esselunga in Varese and Rosa’s risotto alla pescatora, 2019, from the collection of Balzano
The Esselunga Unofficial Fan Club [Manchester]
*Yes I am well aware that even the small retailer's were at the mercy of a distribution chain which started at the markets, where the wholesalers made choices of what to sell, and food companies who back in the past may not always have had an eye on quality.
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